A 7-day itinerary in the stunning Kornati archipelago, one of the largest in the Mediterranean, known for its unspoiled nature, crystal-clear waters and fairy-tale bays where you can relax away from the hustle and bustle.

The Kornati, often referred to as the “Crowned Islands,” make up one of the biggest archipelagos in the Mediterranean. There are over 100 islands and islets, 89 of which are part of the Kornati National Park, established in 1980 to protect the beauty of this area and its incredible variety of animal and plant species. The archipelago is divided into Kornati Alta (High Kornati) and Kornati Bassa (Low Kornati), and its name comes from the impressive cliffs of karst origin that rise straight up from the sea, known as “crowns.” These cliffs reach heights of 60 to 80 meters, while the depths below the crowns exceed 100 meters.

Sailing along these rocky shores, marked by towering cliffs, headlands, and sea caves, is like discovering a true paradise for sailors, divers, and anyone who appreciates solitude and wild nature. Just drop anchor in one of the sheltered, fairy-tale bays to soak up the sun and go snorkeling. Many beaches can only be accessed by boat, so they’re rarely crowded. Most of the islands are rugged and not frequently visited, giving off a sometimes lunar landscape. Besides the crystal-clear sea, you’ll also enjoy charming seafood restaurants, military fortresses, ancient tombs and Venetian castles.

Day 1, Biograd – Ždrelac – Iž, 10 or 17 miles

Our starting point for this route around the Kornati Islands is Biograd, which has a modern marina with 800 boat slips, all the necessary nautical services, a 50-ton travel lift, as well as a marine equipment store, restaurants, bars, a supermarket and a laundry service. Every year, the ‘Biograd Boat Show’ is held here, one of Croatia’s most important nautical events featuring exhibitions, regattas and parties. Being an ideal departure point for exploring both northern and southern Adriatic, it’s a popular destination for sailors.

Once you’ve picked up your boat, and since the marina is just a short walk from the city center, you can take a nice stroll through its bustling streets. If you’d rather relax after your journey, you can head north to Bošana beach or south to the famous Soline beach.

After completing the rental paperwork, you can finally set sail. We’ll head north with the typical afternoon Maestrale breeze, which often exceeds 20 knots in the Pašman Channel. After about 3 miles, we’ll pass under the Ždrelac bridge, which is located between Ugljan and Pašman. Before departing from the rental base, it’s a good idea to check the maximum height of your boat’s mast, which should not exceed 16.5 meters from the bridge. Also, remember that boats approaching from the southwest have the right of way. Alternatively, you can head northwest from Biograd and sail around Ugljan (17 miles).

We’ll spend our first night off the island of Iž, in a beautiful channel behind the small islet of Knežak, just 5 miles from Ždrelac (or 17 miles if you took the longer route around Ugljan). Here, you can anchor in 4 meters of depth and take a swim in the crystal-clear water. Experienced divers can also look for delicious clams that are abundant on the sandy bottom. In the channel, there are some buoys owned by an excellent restaurant, Knež, in the nearby village of the same name, where you can enjoy local culinary delights by reservation.

Day 2, Iž – Dugi Otok – Veli Rat, 23 miles

The next morning, you can go shopping in the village and buy fresh fish from the local fishermen who can often be found by the sea. After breakfast, we head out towards the southeastern cape of Iž and then turn towards the beautiful island of Dugi Otok. If you’re in the mood for a swim, you can also anchor at the little islet of Rava. The bays of Paladnica and Ovča on Dugi Otok are especially stunning. In the afternoon, we continue to the northernmost point of Dugi Otok. Be careful of the rocks between Zverinac and the northern tip of Dugi Otok. The safest option is to stay closer to Zverinac. Then we move on to the deep bay of Pantera. At the very northern tip of the Veliki Rat promontory, you can see the remains of a ship that ran aground in 1984.

Once the boat is secured to one of the floating buoys in the bay, you can use the tender to go ashore. Here, you can get a close look at the tallest lighthouse in the Adriatic, which stands at 42 meters. On a clear night, its light can be seen from over 20 miles away. For a tasty dinner, you can choose the DM restaurant located in the bay of Čuna, further south. In front of the restaurant, there are 2 or 3 mooring buoys with a maximum depth of 2.5 meters. Two must-try specialties are the sea urchin pie and the fantastic lobster tagliolini.

Day 3, Veli Rat – Molat – Silba – Olib, 28 miles

Day 4, Silba – Sestrunj – Sali, 30 miles

On the fourth day of our cruise in the Kornati Islands, we head southeast towards Sestrunj. The best spots for swimming are on the southeast side of the island. You can also anchor in the shallows between the small islands of Paranak Mali, Paranak Veli and Sestrunj. After that, with the Maestrale wind pushing us along, we continue south of the islands of Iž and Rava, until we reach the fishing village of Sali, which is a great starting point for exploring the Kornati National Park the next day.

As the administrative and tourist center of Dugi Otok, Sali offers plenty of affordable docking spots with electricity, water and bathrooms. When the winds are coming from the south, it’s safer to tie up at the west dock. For those wanting to party with the crew, there’s the famous Maritimo disco bar right next to the east dock, where the music keeps playing until dawn. Sali has a rich, thousand-year-old tradition of fishing and agriculture and is especially known for its olive oil, which you can buy right from roadside stalls. The most famous cultural event takes place in August, the annual town game “Saljske užance,” featuring a donkey race as the main attraction.

Sali also has many restaurants, an internet café and grocery stores. In the off-season, it’s a popular safe harbor for large fishing boats waiting for better weather. Fresh fish can be bought almost every day along the waterfront.

 

Day 5, Sali – Telaščica – Kornat, 16 miles

From Sali, we set sail towards the Mala Proversa Channel, which separates Dugi Otok from the Kornati National Park. Once we enter the channel, we’re practically inside the Telaščica National Park and we can secure the boat to a buoy or anchor. You can also dock in front of one of the many regular taverns, where you only pay for the food and drinks. There are two more options: visit the Mir Cove, a saltwater lake with stunning cliffs rising 100 meters high, located north of Proversa, or take a swim in the crystal-clear waters of Lojena Bay in Levernaka. If the weather is nice, you can even spend the night there, but it’s best to avoid the area when the winds are coming from the northwest. Except for the ACI Piškera marina, there are no grocery stores in the Kornati.

Day 6, Kornat – Žut – Pašman, 25 miles

Let’s take advantage of this sixth day in the Kornati Islands to sail around the eastern side of Kornat Island, passing between the islets of Lavsa and Kameni Žakan. Then, we’ll head north to Smokvica, which is the last island in the Kornati archipelago. After that, we’ll continue to Žut, where we can stop for a swim in the Žutska Aba channel. Alternatively, we can explore the western coast of the island until we reach Pinzelić or Bizikovica Bay, where we can anchor and dive into the crystal-clear waters.

In the early afternoon, we’ll set sail towards Pašman to the east, where we can take a break in the breathtaking Landin Bay. Here, we can either anchor or tie our boat to one of the about 20 floating buoys managed by the family-run Landin Tavern, where we can enjoy a delicious octopus dish in a wonderful setting just a few meters from the sea.

When strong southerly winds are prevalent, it’s better to avoid docking at the harbor and instead stop in the Bay of Soline or St. Ante further north, surrounded by a fragrant pine forest.

Day 7, Pašman – Vrgada – Biograd, 9 miles

Today is the last day of sailing in the Kornati, so take some time to relax. Since the route back to Marina Kornati in Biograd is just a few miles, explore the islands south of Pašman, like the beautiful Vrgada, where you can swim and have lunch in the early afternoon. You can also sail around the Murter archipelago or visit coastal towns like Drage or Pakoštane. In the afternoon, make sure to fill up your fuel tank at the gas station near the entrance to the marina. After that, return the boat to the charter operator and get your security deposit back. All the memories from this amazing trip will stay with us for a long time…