Porquerolles and the Hyères Islands: True gems of the Mediterranean
A 7-day sailing itinerary that takes us to explore Porquerolles and the islands of Hyères. This archipelago is one of the most beautiful and unspoiled areas in the Mediterranean, home to a National Marine Park and filled with charming villages that have a delightful Provencial atmosphere.
The Hyères archipelago features the most famous islands of the French Riviera, long cherished by sailors navigating the Mediterranean for their pristine nature and crystal-clear turquoise waters. The three main islands—Le Levant, Port-Cros and Porquerolles—are so breathtaking that ancient people called them “golden islands” because of the golden reflections on the rocks at sunset. There are also other small islets and rocks just waiting to be explored. It’s a true unspoiled paradise for diving enthusiasts, who come from all over the world to admire the beautiful underwater landscapes teeming with life. The local residents take great care to preserve the wild nature and strict rules are in place across all the islands to protect their wonders.
You can reach the Hyères archipelago from the Giens peninsula, the town of Hyères, or the town of Saint Mandrier. The best time to discover the islands is during the less crowded months, so ideally before or after July and August. However, visiting in the low season is also an option, as it rarely gets too cold in the south of France, even in winter.
Day 1, Saint Mandrier, boarding
The starting point for our cruise is Saint Mandrier, a small fishing village on the French Riviera located on the peninsula of the same name. It’s connected to the French mainland by the Isthmus of Sablettes. The village grew around a natural harbor, which today is a modern marina that offers all kinds of services for boaters. Over the centuries, the town has increasingly embraced its fishing heritage while managing to keep its authentic charm as a quiet village rich in traditions and history, closely linked to the nearby naval base in Toulon. Even today, the French Navy occupies three-quarters of the town’s area, including a naval training center, a diving center and a mechanics school. The lighthouse overlooking the coast is an interesting reminder of that period.
In recent years, the town has thrived thanks to its stunning natural scenery, beautiful beaches, mild climate year-round and a relaxing yet fun atmosphere. As you explore the town center, you can visit the National Navy Museum, which tells the story of the Navy in the Mediterranean. You should also check out the lovely 19th-century church, the St. Louis chapel, and the famous Franco-Italian cemetery, situated on the heights surrounding Saint Mandrier, not far from the old military hospital. Beyond its historical significance, the site offers an unbeatable view of the entire peninsula and the nearby Toulon. On windy Mistral days, when the sky is clear, you can even catch a glimpse of the islands of Porquerolles and Levant.
Day 2: Saint Mandrier – Porquerolles, 14 miles
With a two-hour boat ride, you can reach Porquerolles Island, the largest in the Hyères archipelago, known for its pristine nature and unique crescent shape. The northern coast of the island is lined with sandy beaches and filled with the scent of myrtle, strawberry and pine trees. This is where the small village of Porquerolles is located, built around the harbor and the town square, Place d’Armes. In contrast, the southern coast is more rugged and rocky, featuring impressive cliffs that plunge into the crystal-clear sea. The most picturesque viewpoint, especially in the early morning, is Calanque de L’Indienne, while a stop in the sheltered bay of Notre-Dame is worthwhile. This bay is protected from the northwesterly winds on the west and the easterly winds on the east, and it is bordered by pines and oak forests, making it a charming spot.
Porquerolles and the Hyères Islands are definitely worth exploring. You should visit the lighthouse, which stands 84 meters tall at the southernmost point; it’s one of the most powerful in the Mediterranean and a national heritage site on the island. The island is also dotted with military fortifications, such as Fort Saint Agatha, which hosts the Porquerolles Jazz Festival every year. Next to it is the famous Mulino du Bonheur. There’s also Fort l’Alycastre, built by Richelieu in 1640, and Fort de Repentance on the eastern side of the island. You can also stroll through the beautiful garden of Emmanuel Lopez, shaded by olive trees, laurels and palms, or admire contemporary art exhibits and sculptures at Villa Carmignac, an old Provencial farmhouse perched on the heights of Porquerolles.
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Day 3, Porquerolles – Port Cros, 9 miles
After another 2 hours of sailing, we set our course for Port-Cros. Designated a National Park in 1963, it is the wildest and best-preserved among the Hyères Islands and the first Marine National Park in Europe. Its landscape features steep cliffs, dense Mediterranean scrub and forests of holm oaks and Aleppo pines. There are only a few beaches, but the underwater life is exceptional. The island of Port-Cros gets its name from a small cross-shaped harbor located in the northwest part near Île de Bagaud. This is also the island’s only landing spot, which is somewhat sheltered from the Mistral wind and organized within a narrow cove. It has two docks and an anchorage area with 42 boat spaces and depths ranging from 1.8 to 4 meters. In the eastern part of the bay, you can find a few restaurants and a grocery store for supplies.
The island and its National Park, along with its rocky coastlines, crystal-clear bays, steep cliffs and oak forests, also host an incredible historical heritage made up of archaeological remains, shipwrecks and military forts, such as the Fort du Moulin, the oldest one built under Francis I, or the Fort de l’Estissac, constructed under Richelieu in 1635. If you love diving, you can explore the 30-40 minute underwater trail that winds along the northern part of the island or visit the nearby islet of la Gabinière.
Day 4, Port Cros – Levant island, 3 miles
We’re casting off for a short half-hour sail. That’s just enough time to reach island of Levant, a beautiful and quite unique island. It’s divided into two parts: the military area, which is off-limits, and a small section on the island’s west coast that is open to the public. This area is home to the famous naturist village of Héliopolis, established in 1931, which is located on the Grotte Beach, the island’s only sandy beach nestled in the heart of a small rocky cove. The other beach is Plage de Sable Levant. Naturism is practiced here with the utmost respect and tolerance, and it’s allowed everywhere except in public areas around the harbor and the town square.
For those who don’t practice naturism but want to visit the island, there’s a nature trail designed to guide hikers from the entrance of the estate, at the top of the village, to the Cirque de la Galère and then along the coast to the harbor. The trail takes about 2.5 hours to complete. Additionally, since there’s no lighting, it’s essential to bring a flashlight as evening falls. The village features a small square, a post office, an information center, a few cafés and a couple of hotels.
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Day 5, Levant island – Le Lavandou, 5,4 miles
On the fifth day of our cruise, we set sail for Le Lavandou, a charming seaside village that blends typical Provencial charm with the stunning beauty of the Côte d’Azur. Nestled at the foot of the Maures massif, it was founded just a century ago by fishermen from Genoa and Catalonia, drawn by the bountiful sea. Today, it’s a popular cruise destination, boasting a dozen dreamy beaches lining the turquoise waters. You can explore delightful coves surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, perfect for anchoring, like Plage d’Aiguebelle, Plage du Rossignol, Pramousquier Beach, Plage du Layet, and Plage de Jean Blanc. Or you can enjoy long stretches of fine sand at beaches like Plage de l’Anglade, Plage du Lavandou, Plage de la Fossette, Plage de Saint-Clair, Cap Nègre Beach and Plage de Cavalière.
Le Lavandou is also a great spot for whale watching by boat. It’s part of the Pelagos Sanctuary, a marine area protected by an agreement between Italy, Monaco and France, which safeguards various species of whales and dolphins, including sperm whales. In the heart of the village, you’ll find narrow streets lined with colorful buildings. A must-see is the itinerary of 14 fountains, a symbol of life present in every Provencial village. A stroll through the local market filled with flowers and fruits is also an unmissable experience, offering a taste of the picturesque atmosphere rich in local scents. There are also plenty of trails for cycling, walking and even a scenic train that runs along the coast.
Day 6: Le Lavandou – Presqu’île de Giens, 10,5 miles
It’s time to set off for the Presqu’île de Giens, a charming spot filled with hidden little beaches, coves and sea caves, as well as salt flats teeming with migratory birds, river deltas and a picturesque Provençal village. The southern part of the island features cliffs and forests but also includes the small port of Niel to the southwest and the port of Tour Fondue to the southeast. On either side of the peninsula, you’ll find the Gulf of Giens to the west and Hyères Bay to the east. The peninsula itself is connected to the coast by two sandy strips, known as the “double tombolo,” which is an amazing natural phenomenon.
You won’t want to miss the beautiful beaches of Almanarre, Bergerie, Badine and La Capte, which fill up with colorful windsurfing and kitesurfing sails on windy Maestrale days. The Pesquiers pond is also worth a visit, home to salt producers, fish farmers and sugarcane growers. While exploring these shores, be sure to check out the Abbey of Saint-Pierre de l’Almanarre, built in 1220 with ancient stones, and the church of Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption. If you’re looking for adventure, you can take a boat to Ile Longue and get lost among its sea caves, which reflect spectacularly in the turquoise sea when the sun is shining.
Day 7, Presqu’île de Giens – Saint Mandrier, 12 miles, 2,5 hours
After all the beauty, hikes, swims, and relaxation, it’s time to return to the French coast at our base in Saint Mandrier. It’s just under a three-hour sailing trip that allows us to enjoy this dreamlike sea that kisses the Côte d’Azur for a little while longer. We can stay immersed in this natural paradise, which we must protect with strict rules. Rules that all boaters have no trouble following…
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